Sun and Sand in Antigua & St. Kitts

November 24 – 27

All right, I feel slightly lazy about my writing this week, but to be honest, I feel like the islands are rinse and repeat. They are so close together and share similar histories and geography that writing about one is a little like writing about the next one.

4 mornings, 4 sunrises

Sorry, Caribbean, but it’s true. The islands are also small and except for the large duty-free shops, there is little to see except beaches. So for four days, that’s about what I did. In fact, Antigua has 365 beaches – one for each day of the year.

In Antigua, we arrived on a Sunday, which meant that most everything was closed. Sunday is the day off, and families get together and do things. This also meant that Sunday was also party day, and some residents joined a BBQ party at a lookout that night. I was skyping with mom and dad.

Heritage Quay
Chicken walking on the car

But I’m getting ahead of myself. First, Scott and I walked to Fort John Beach. It was about an hour away from the boat, but the hot weather didn’t make for an easy walk.

SIgn on the way to the beach- Wadadli the local beer I never saw anywhere.
Once you leave the pretty port area the real housing and shops begins.
Hermit crabs were dashing around

About 5 minutes after we arrived Angela and Steve caught up (we had left ahead of them to go a little slower) and found out about a restaurant/bar at the end of the beach where we could sit on loungers in the shade for free if we bought a drink there.

Part of the beach right in front of the restaurant. It was a little rougher waters here but still nice.

4 minutes passed here, and I wandered to the Fort Johns’ remains. It gives some nice views of the harbor entrance.

Fort ruins seen from the Odyssey as we entered the harbour.
From the top of the fort. The old cannons still stand.
Hurricanes have not been kind to the buildings.

The next day was almost a repeat of day one, with another beach, and fort remains overlooking it. This one was Deep Bay Beach, and I tried out my new snorkeling mask. It works great, but the water wasn’t clear, so I didn’t bother going out to the shipwreck that is about 200 yards off the beach.

Getting from the parking lot to the beach.
Deep Bay Beach

The shops were expensive just like every other island we had visited.

Saint John’s at night.

After 2 days in Antigua, we moved to St. Kitts for another two-day stop that involved more beaches.

Day one of St. Kitts, I was feeling tired and had a weird sunburn/rash on my ankles.

Entrance to Port Zante from the ships.
We had some larger cruise ship neighbours.

St. Kitts has a larger port and hosts more cruise ships at a time so the busy port was a tad off-putting. As soon as I walked ashore it was to a cacophony of shouting taxis and tour guides, locals with spider monkeys to pose in pictures with, vendors calling out and masses of tourists roaming about without any care.

I decided to walk Basseterre and it didn’t take long to see the highlights as the town is small.

Starting in Port Zante, since that is where the Odyssey was, I walked through the port area and headed to the National Museum of Saint Kitts. Sadly, it is under renovation and closed to visitors.

Museum under renovation.

I took a left and made my way to the Circus and Berkeley Memorial, which is a combination drinking fountain and a clock in the center of Circus (a historic square).

Berkeley Memorial

From here, I walked to Independence Square. It was originally Pall Mall Square. Where the fountain now stands was once the site of a market where enslaved men, women, and children were sold.

Fountain in Independence Square

Off of Independence Square is the Basseterre Co-Cathedral of Immaculate Conception.

Basseterre Co-Cathedral of Immaculate Conception
Interior of the Cathedral

After a quick visit inside the cathedral, I walked a few blocks to the St. George’s Anglican Church. It stands on the site of the former Notre Dame, which was burned down by the British in 1710.

St. George’s Anglican Church
Crypt out back

St. George also suffered its own fire problems in 1763 and hurricanes in 1831 and 1843. The church was rebuilt in 1859 only to burn down in 1866. It was rebuilt again in 1869 and has stood tall ever since.

Interior of St. George’s

At this point, I didn’t have much left to see, so I made my way back to the port area where Amina craft market is to have a look.

Old Market area that is still closed from hurricane damage

The craft stalls and duty-free shops all want to make a sale. I get that I do, and I don’t know if they work on commission in the bigger stores, but I felt like I was stalked. If I showed the slightest interest, aka looked at anything no matter how casually, it was an invitation for the sales team to rush in and try to sell me the item.

Fun bridge

I don’t like pushy salespeople, as a matter of fact, I’d rather have to hunt a worker down to see something closer or ask a question so this was driving me absolutely bonkers.

Famous/important people to the country.

Feeling my breaking point of niceness approaching, I returned to the Odyssey for some alone time in my cabin, watching a movie and reading a book. Nothing productive and nothing social. I felt much better the next morning.

Because I had ignored humans the day before, I woke up to a flurry of Whatsapp messages. One in particular involved an island tour that cost $25. I decided I’d join in, and the plan was for everyone going to meet at 10 am on the gangway.

View of the Atlantic on the left and the Caribbean on the right. Salt lake is also on the right.

What I and everyone else was unaware of was that the tour wasn’t going to start until 10:45, and the meeting point was a 2-minute walk from the gangway. So we arrived enmass at the gate at 10 and our guide wasn’t going to be there until 10:40.

No, just no. It was hot as sin out, and we were not in a shaded area. People called, and the driver said he would come in 2 minutes. Lol around 10:20, he showed up, and I asked if we could go sit on the bus out of the sun.

Basseterre walkway from the ship- 2 minutes, 3 is your slow.

We slowly walked over there. stopping for him to pick up rum and get on the bus. We just fit and were leaving the parking area when he received a message that 2 more of our people were coming. Drama ensues – there is no more room. They are late anyway.

Looking back at the Atlantic

He goes and fetches them and we have to go on a different bus- everybody off and finds new seats which causes an uproar because people who had window seats, now don’t, the late people took 2 window seats, they were arguing that they weren’t late, etc.

Deborah and a monkey man at the view point

I really don’t like groups of people in general, they are tiring, but arguing grumpy people I absolutely refuse to spend my day with if I don’t have to, and I didn’t have to, so I just walked away.

I feel like I’m complaining too much? Am I complaining too much?

Cockleshell at Cockleshell Beach

As I was walking away, another driver with a group of 6 strangers said they were going to the beach and did I want to join them? So I said yes and headed to their taxi. Another resident, Deborah, left the complaining crew, and I got her to join us.

So instead of an island tour, I had a hoot at Cockleshell Beach with a group of German tourists and Deborah. It was a fun 4 hours without a complainer in sight.

Some of the drinks available were creatively named. I tried a Sex on My Face.

We have been at sea for 50 days but with the 4 months of “waiting travel”, that’s 5 1/2 months on the go. I enjoy my life and the friends that I have made on the Odyssey regardless of a couple of cranky days this past week.

Responses

  1. travel_cat_21st_century Avatar

    I’m sure an occasional day in your quiet cabin with a movie is necessary to balance out the cruise ship life! And how was Sex on your Face?! 🤣

    Like

    1. Patti-Jo Boettcher Avatar

      so strong but amazingly delicious!

      Like

Leave a reply to travel_cat_21st_century Cancel reply