Chasing Summer –

January 25-31

Cape Horn

Okay, the weather around South America has been challenging, to say the least. The captain has had to make several last-minute decisions in order to get the Odyssey down the west coast of South America successfully. Storms have impacted not only our routing but also the ports we have been able or not able to visit.

The further south, the rougher the seas, and many ships need to be able to make changes. In order to continue to avoid bad storms in the Atlantic when we left Punta Arenas, the Odyssey turned north to the other end of the Magellin Strait and down around the tip of the continent.

Captain Val headed towards Cape Horn but cautioned us several times that we might not make it there if the weather turned. This area is the start of Drake’s Passage, where the Atlantic and Pacific Oceans meet and are notoriously rough and stormy. Thousands of sailors have lost their lives and boats trying to go around this spot.

As we approached the area, it was rainy and very windy, but the decision was made that we would continue on to the Islands. The outer decks had been closed all day due to high winds, and as we approached, they were opened with the caution that anything loose would be lost.

It was incredibly windy at the front, and rain would come and go, lashing anyone outside. The clouds and fog made the island appear and seemingly disappear from sight moments later.

On the island is a lighthouse that is home to a family, usually on a one-year contract. It is currently home to a family of four (mom, dad, and two young daughters) and has been for the past three years. There is also a monument on a hilltop honoring the drowned.

Ushuaia x 3

We finally made it to the end of the continent and the beginning of Argentina. For me, it was my third time visiting the charming city of Ushuaia.

We were scheduled for two days here and then continuing onto the Falkland Islands. Many residents were planning to take the tours I had already taken to the end of the world last year. I figured I would wander around town and do a hike one day.

On our first day here, I managed to drag Michael off the boat and for a walk to the sign for Ushuaia and through the center of town. We stopped at the Hard Rock Cafe for lunch and then made our way back to the ship.

The second day, I set off with a group that was hiking to the glacier. While I knew I was not at their pace, I figured I’d go to the first lookout with them and then wander back down to town. I was feeling like I might be getting sick, so I didn’t want to push it.

It is possible to take a taxi all the way up to the glacier lookout if one wanted, but we walked up from the boat. I was right, I was much slower. The first lookout was off the trail, and we walked right past it, so I decided that the second one was close enough to get to.

The walk here, according to Google, was 1 hour and 20 minutes. We arrived in one hour. I pantingly told them to have fun, and Ed and I admired the view for a couple of minutes before retracing our steps and finding the first lookout, which had a better view. We spent another hour walking back to town and found a change station to change some dollars to pesos.

Similar to last year, the exchange rate is much better outside of banks. The inflation is not as bad this year, but the rate is still better at a blue market.

We made it back to the Odyssey for lunch and the afternoon announcement that we would not be going to the Falkland Islands after all. Weather forecasting showed that we would be unable to tender to shore and, therefore, would be staying in Ushuaia for two more days before heading to the next port on our list.

People are pissed. I get it, the weather is not optimal and we have had several changes that mean highly desirable locations are not being hit as promised, the Galapagos Islands, Antarctica, and the Falklands being the latest casualties.

Ushuaia is also expensive to hang out in. Several people took the opportunity to jump ship and join last-minute Antarctica cruise spots. Every day, 2 or 3 expedition ships depart from the same pier as us.

This delay meant two more days of wandering around town with different people and the opportunity to feel better.

Tonight, we leave for three full sea days to get us further north in Argentina.