December 29/30
Peru looked uncertain about the ability to berth at port as high ways and winds were battering Peru as we were arriving.
Luckily, we safely made it into Slaverry, which was far enough north that the port wasn’t one of the many closed. Our stop in Lima is still unclear (many residents plan on flying to Cusco to visit Manchu Picchu), but that’s an issue for later.
The Odyssey’s arrival in Salaverry was met by thousands of birds and whitecaps crashing into the breakers. Again, people are not allowed to walk on the port, so a shuttle has to be used to go to the very close main square.
Paul and I headed off to catch a taxi to go do the rounds of Chan Chan, Huaca del Sol y la Luna, Trujillo, and Moche. It is a common route, and several taxis were waiting for people. We went with George for $100 and had Rick and Sherry join us to make it cheaper. Several people bargained for $20 per person.
Our first stop was Moche, about a 10-minute drive from Salaverry. The drive is short, but the smell of livestock was potent for several minutes. Moche has a short street with information and models regarding local history. They also had several restaurants, one serving cuy (Guinea pig) that Paul was super excited to see.
From Moche, we went another 10 minutes to Huaca del Sol y la Luna (100-800AD). Tickets cost 10 sol (over 60 was 5), and an English-speaking guide took us around the ruins. Visitors can only go to the Temple of the Moon as the Temple of the Sun hasn’t been excavated for fear of collapse and lack of money.
The Temple of the Moon was a religious site home to human sacrifices. The Moche people eventually left this area after the failure of the sacrifices to stop rain and flooding. Basically, an ideological shift happened.
The temple was constructed in 4 layers, similar to the Russian nesting dolls, with one level concealed inside the next. Only about 5% of the site has been uncovered as funding ran out for the project.
The construction and remains were amazing to experience, and the guide’s knowledge added value to what we saw.
At the parking lot, we squeezed ourselves back into the car. It was a tight fit, and Paul’s knees may never recover from being jammed in. Off we went to Trujillo and the main square downtown.
The square is still decorated with Christmas trees and other decorations. In the center is a statue.
On one side is the cathedral. I stayed outside since there was a service occurring and was slightly startled when everyone began clapping. Maybe it was a church service? I’ve never been to a pact church, and people start applauding.
After a 10-minute walkabout, we were back in the car and heading to another archeological site, Chan Chan. It is huge and covers an area of 20 square kilometers.
This is where the Moche people who moved away from the Huacas de Moche relocated to and lived for the next three hundred years. After the Incas conquered the Chimu in 1470, Chan Chan fell into decline.
Unlike the Huacas, this is a government funded site. I liked the Huacas more and hope that someday, the money to uncover more happens.
In morning two, Paul, Angela, Steve, and I went on a wander around Salaverry itself. It is not a large town, and we saw everything here in under two hours. We walked up the coastal boardwalk and made our way back through town. On the way, we saw several small green parks, which was nice since the surrounding area is a desert landscape.
We also stumbled into the local market and eventually found our way to the cemetery. Ironically, they took our picture in front of the cemetery sign. I guess most tourists don’t go out that way.
All of the people were friendly and quick to say hello. It was a much safer feeling than in Ecuador. After lunch, the Odyssey makes her way to Callao. Over the past few days, the weather has been making large waves, and many Peruvian ports have been closed.
Even Callao, which is the main port near Lima, will only be partially open for us. This has made for a few anxious moments since I have a flight to Cusco from Lima tomorrow. Hopefully, everything will continue to settle down, and we won’t have any problems.
Chasing Summer - 
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